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I am currently working on my new daily driver/shop truck. It is a 1985 Chevy M1028 CUCV. Basically a 1.25 ton 4WD diesel pickup. Part of my upgrades to this truck is to install a stereo system. This was a military truck so it did not come with a stereo. I really like listening to the radio and podcasts and tunes from my mp3 player so installing a stereo will be a great “comfort” feature. I did a stereo install on my K-10 in the past and I am very happy with the results so I am going to use some similar components for this install. Here is a list of components I am using:

Head unit: Alpine CDE-152 with KTP445A 45W amp

Speakers: Alpine SPR-60  6” speakers for doors and SPR 69 6X9 speakers for the back

Subwoofer: Rockville RW10CA 800W powered subwoofer

I also use 10 gauge speaker wire and some waterproof surroundings for the door speakers. All in all this equipment is about $600 in total. I fabricated some rear speaker mounts for the 6 X 9’s. Here is a link to the post that covers this. http://forums.whatsintheshop.com/post/1973-%E2%80%93-1987-chevy-gmc-pickup-fabricating-rear-speaker-mounting-brackets-allegany-county-ny-7626265?pid=1288826319

I started this install with the subwoofer. I will mount it to the back of the cab.

Here is a pic of the subwoofer I used. I bought the installation kit which was well worth it for the extra $12.00 since we don't have an audio store nearby.
Looks nice

Subwoofer mounted to the back of the cab. I had to make an "L" bracket mount for the bottoms.

The 6 X 9 speakers will be mounted in the cab corners. Notice the M-16 mounts.

Fabricated cab corner speaker mount.

More posts to follow.


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Posts: 375
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Moving on with the stereo install. Just like on my K-10 I want to add some 6” speakers to the door. The doors on this truck are not set up for speakers so I will have to cut the doors. I use the cardboard templates provided with the speakers to layout the door. Next I drill the mounting holes and a hole so I can start the center cut. I use a pneumatic body saw to cut the door. This saw works great. I bought it from Harbor Freight about a five years ago and it has worked great. After the cut was complete I wanted to rustproof the inner part of the door. For this I will use Eastwoods heavy duty anti-rust part # 160172p. This is a wax/oil compound that is used for inner panels. This product is not designed for areas that are constantly exposed to the elements. Next I use a pneumatic right angle drill to drill the door and the cab for the speaker wire. I also outlined the dash for the head unit. See pics and captions below for more details.  


Use template to trace out door

Drilled holes

Use air body saw for cutting

door cut

IMG_6237.JPG  IMG_6238.JPG 
use right angle air drill to cut holes for speaker wires
IMG_6243.JPG  IMG_6245.JPG 
here is the anti-rust and application gun I used for the inside of the doors

Here is what the anti rust looks like dried in the door. It is waxy and works great for inner panels

Next I outlined the dash to make a cut for the head unit.


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Posts: 375
Reply with quote  #3 
Ok let's finish this install. See attached pics and captions. This stereo worked out great. I like the sound of the diesel but having great tunes for a long ride is a big plus. This stereo has an aux input so you can use your mp3 player with it.

stereo cutout complete

I solder and use shrink tubing on all connections
check out this mess. This is the wiring all hooked up so I could test everything before I mounted it for good. Having the seat out made this install a lot easier.
water proof housing for door speakers. These are cheap and work good.

IMG_6250.JPG  IMG_6251.JPG  IMG_6252.JPG 
Door speakers installed.

IMG_6258.JPG  IMG_6259.JPG  IMG_6263.JPG  IMG_6265.JPG  IMG_6268.JPG 
Pictures of stereo installed. The subwoofer has a remote controller which is nice.
Here is the antenna I used. It mounts to the inside of the windshield. It works out well since this truck did not come with a radio antenna.

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